Solved: DNF broken after hostname change Fedora 26

So I created a new VM w/ Fedora 26… did dnf installs for nano ect, then changed host name with hostnamectl command, rebooted… and thats when dnf and yum wouldn’t work. Instead I would get the error

Failed to synchronize chache for repo ‘updates’

I googled around and fiddled with a few settings here and there thinking the hostname change f’d something up (which it may have), but the host name change replicated everything was where it was supposed to be…  the issue ended up being a DNS issue. I saw this when I edited /etc/resolve.conf and there was a random internal IP in there for a name server… so i deleted it and added google’s DNS server with the following lines.

  • nameserver
  • nameserver
  • #Then restart the network
  • Systemctl restart network

This fixed my issue… not sure what generated the weird DNS ip?


Easiest way to move WordPress to a new linux server

So I got a new box, installed fedora 25, configured everything I wanted… but was having a pain in the ass time migrating my WordPress sites to the new one. ~Insert moving sucks joke.


I’m no linux expert by any stretch, but I most of the issues was with the sql databases, as I was using phpmyadmin but error’ing out due to the size of the db’s and the gui just not  doing what it was supposed to. This was the easiest way I was able to do it was in command line following these steps

  1. On the old server your moving from… export the sql database for the WordPress site your moving and also download the wp-content directory. Put these in a directory on your new server… I stuck them in /var/www/tmp/oldwordpress.sql + /var/www/tmp/wp-content_OLD
  2. On the new server Setup a new black clean WordPress install directory and attach it to a clean db. We will eventually move / delete these but I setup a clean new WordPress site to eliminate any unknown issues and know that WordPress is running correctly when installed fresh.
  3.  Ok… so now the files we need are on the new server and its just a matter of importing and placing them where they need to go. Lets create a new sql database doing the following… assuming you have an sql root password already setup… if not you can google how to set that up on most “installing WordPress” tutorials. Bold text such as mywpsite should be changed to what you want it to be named…
sudo mysqladmin create mywpsitedb -u root -p
sudo mysql -D mysql -u root -p



MariaDB [mysql]> QUIT;

Ok… so now we’ve created a DB and an SQL user name and password… lets import our old sql tables by navigating to that file directory and manually importing them… remember to change bold text to your actually file names and credentials

cd /var/www/tmp
mysql -uSQL_USERNAME -pPASSWORD DATABASE < oldwordpress.sql

all your old tables should be associated with your new database now. Next step is to import all the content to the new WordPress install you have.

yes | cp -R /var/www/tmp/wp-content_OLD/* /var/www/newwordpressdir/wp-content

now edit the wp-config and change the values to point to the new database with the credentials you setup

nano /var/www/newwordpressdir/wp-config.php
// ** MySQL settings - You can get this info from your web host ** //

/** The name of the database for WordPress */


/** MySQL database username */

define('DB_USER', 'SQL_USERNAME');

/** MySQL database password */


last thing is to make sure you change ownership of the wp-content directory to apache if its not already.

chown apache:apache -R /var/www/newwordpressdir/wp-content

hopefully that works now, it did for me… you should be able to login and see all your plugins, themes, posts, etc working as it was on your old server.

Blinking Cursor after Fresh Win7 Install : Solved


The issue was the install was not replacing the GRUB loader correctly on the HD, even though the install process should have been…. heres the story and fix.

I replaced a hard drive in a computer, and tried to install windows 7pro 64 on it. The install copied/expanded files and did its thing… however after it rebooted to finish the last piece of the install… i saw the manf. splash screen as expected, then it just went to a black screen blinking cursor… for ever

~~In before you say did you…
-made sure the DVD was out
-rebooted multiple times
-made sure bios boot order was to HD first
-reinstalled OS again, deleting partitions and fresh formatting
-tryed F8 to boot into safe mode after install… nothing

So then I figured out if I hit F12 as prompted to change the boot order I saw the HD, DVD, etc… but also windows boot manager… if I did that it finished the last leg of the install… .but upon further reboots it does the same thing… so overtime I rebooted I had to make sure I hit F12 and select windows boot manager.

Technically thats a fix, but its not very user friendly, especially when you power it up and forget to hit that.. The issue was the GRUB loader on disk was not being overwritten correctly, so I did some more digging on the inter webs and found you can manually scrub the GRUB loader during install, and that worked….

The fix required me to reinstall again… but whatever at this point… what’s one more wipe and install

-boot from DVD/CD and start reinstall of windows process.
-@ the second install window hit Shift+F10 to get cmd prompt
-type the following commands… waiting for each one to complete before you go to the next.
list disk
select disk 0
 <– if only one drive

I then went through the rest of the install and the fist worked.

Although, i should mention I also did not partition / format the drive this time though. The command above deletes all portions, and this time I just selected the unpartitioned space for the install and let windows auto create the portions it needed .

If your here reading this… hope the fix works for you.

I don’t need no f*ckin’ case on my phone


Every day, I carry one of the most advance pieces of technology in the known universe. Not too long ago, people wouldn’t be able to fathom the capabilites this device can do for me . Add to this the fact that the device is so well designed and precision engineered to the micron that its able to fit in my pocket… well then… now we got something really special. So special circa 2006’s James Bond would be envious, and 1964’s Bond would think I’m from space its so far out of his league of imagination.

And I don’t have a case for this device…  Because, unlike my grandma, I don’t cover my sofas with plastic.

So I cracked….errr…. shattered my iPhone 6 like the second week I got it. The screen and digitizer were more than i liked to pay, so as self punishment I lived with it for a few months… I’ve finally ordered the new screen this week. Friends and family keep asking me though… are you going to get a case now?


haha… this post from gizmodo pretty much sums up why. I thought it was a really good editorial tech piece of writing I thought I’d back link to it here incase anyone hasn’t read it yet.

How do I get NCARB software on my computer


How… Easy… just go to the NCARB site and download and install it… oh wait… you get some 64bit errors?… it’s only compatible with windows XP or other 32bit operating systems?… and your computer is post 1984 and/or even a Mac… bummer.

Well, actually… fret not as you have two options (…if you have internet where you study).

Option #1 | Pay NCARB more money than you already do,  and add their “cloud based” practice software. Technically, a virtual machine running windows XP somewhere in the world and the NCARB practice software pre-installed on it. If you do this option to get the testing software, your essentially  paying for remote access through the internet to this virtual machine they assign you somewhere in the world so you can use their practice testing software. Its the easiest option to getting the NCARB software installed but its $10 a year, and you will not be able to modify / install any alternate tests you see on various websites or ARE study forums.

Option #2 | Install your own virtual machine on your Mac OS or Windows 7 or 8 that runs Windows XP 32bit in the background, and once thats up and running you can install the NCARB practice software til’ your heart’s content, add various alternate practice files, and even run it offline sans the internet in your cave or wherever you study that doesn’t have internet.

For those that don’t know, a virtual machine (or VM) is software that emulates another computer running in the background of the computer your actually sitting in front of. An example would be say your sitting in front of a computer running windows 7 (64bit), which is incompatible with the NCARB software. As an option you can setup and run a virtual windows XP computer that runs in the background. Once this winXP VM is running in the background you can install any software on it like it was its own little computer inside your computer… including the NCARB practice software running on it.

Check out how to install a VM of windows XP on a mac… post to follow, link will be updated

Check out how to install a VM of windows XP on a windows 64 bit machine… post to follow, link will be updated

What is the IP address of the printer on my MAC OS

Screen Shot 2013-10-22 at 12.00.15 PM

I manage a network of about 20 workstations, 5 printers, and some other fun stuff.

Most of the workstations are windows based, and if I need to find out the IP address of one of my printers on the network I can easily go to print properties and see the port configuration… its not that easy on the MAC… atleast until I figured out the below. You see, Mac uses a unix based printing language called CUPS, and there is actually a neat little web interface for this if you enable it… with that you can see more (like the printer’s IP address).

So two steps, 1.enable cups web interface, and then 2. find the IP address of the printer you want.

1a. System Preferences -> Sharing -> Check off  “Printer Sharing”

1b. Open Terminal, type the following: cupsctl WebInterface=yes

2a. Open the CUPS web interface with the following address in your safari browser

2b. Click the tab Printers -> Then the click the name of the printer

It should display some basic info about this printer, one of the lines will have it’s local IP address



iOS7 Halloween Hack… sort of



A Co-Worker told me about this hidden setting… It essentially inverts the default color pallet of your phone. At first I thought it was just the colors of the app icons to make them anti-apple, but then I quickly realized it does it to all the menus in the apps themselves as well as pictures.

This invert trick turned the blues to a cool orange color and made pics of my son’s look like zombie kids… perfect for halloween if you can stand browsing web pages and what not like this… worst case you can always change it back.

Here’s where to toggle the setting:

Settings > General > Accessibility > Invert Colors

Wha-La… a halloween interface!

Chrysler Factory Computer Seat Belt & More Hacks


So we entered the man-van stage of my vehilces… man-vans are like mini-vans, but cooler… because I drive them :). Anyway… some of the “safety” features in new cars drive me nuts… call me ignorant, stupid, whatever… I don’t care, but they annoy me sometimes and I want to disable them if possible… and I’m sharing how I did it here. The engineers of newer computerized cars usually allow backdoor sequences for someone to change various programming options without needing special equipment for the vehicles diagnostic port.  What this means is you can disable most of these features annoyances by searching the inter-webs or even deep down in your car owner’s manual. Here are some of the features I figured out how on my 2012 Chrysler Town and Country.

These factory hacks will most likely work for any newer Chrysler, Dodge, and even jeep models as they are all sister companies of each other and usually share more common electrical parts, such as the computer hardware / software. However, with that said, I’ve only tested these on my own Town and Country. Same goes with GMC, Chevy, Cadillac, and Buick are all sister companies of each other… so even if these hacks most likely won’t work with those brands, you can try looking in forums of other sister brands of your specific vehicle.


Disable Seat Belt Chime:

1. Hop in your car, close all the doors and buckle the seat belt.

2. Start the engine and wait until seatbelt light on dash goes off. When it does go out unplug seatbelt and wait for seatbelt light on dash to go on again. Unplug seatbelt and repeat this process so you unplug and re-plug seatbelt a total of 3 times within 60 seconds or so… ending with the seatbelt plugged in.

3. With the seatbelt still plugged in (or buckled) turn off the engine. The Chrysler 300 forum I got this info from said you should hear a chime when the car turns off, but I didn’t on my van. But I do not hear that seat belt chime when the driver or passenger decide not to buckle up either.

Notes: If you want to turn the chime back on simply repeat the steps above. Also note, that although this disables the chime, you will still see “seat belts” light on the dash and the EVIC will display a message about buckling up… but no chime at least. If I figure out how to disable the messages I will post that as well.


Disable Auto-Door’s locking when vehicle starts moving:

This feature locks all the vehicles doors once a speed of 15 mph is reached. In my 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited you could navigate the EVIC menus overhead to disable it. On my 2012 Chrysler Town & Country I did not see this option in the EVIC menu, however you can still enable / disable by doing the following.

1. Hop in the car and close all the vehicles, stick the key in and leave it in the off position for 20 seconds or so.

2. Turn the key to the on positions (do turn key all the way to start position.. if the engine turn over to start take the key out and restart the process) then turn it back the off position.

3. Repeat this on – off sequence of the key for a total of 4 times within 60 seconds.

4. End the sequence with the key in the off position, and now hit the driver side lock button on the door. They say you should hear a chime, but I didn’t… however my doors don’t lock at 15MPH any more.

MS office 2013 activation error

Screen Shot 2013-08-20 at 12.02.15 PMThis pissed me off.. but most computer things do now-a-days, as I don’t have the time to “fiddle with them”. Scroll to bottom to see solution.

Basically, I was getting an error 0xC004f017 or 0x80070005 every time I tried to activate a new office 2013 product at my office. They give you an alternative to online activation by calling an automated number, but its one of those voice activation bull shit systems that piss you off even more because it takes forever and a day longer than just entering some f’ing numbers quickly… As you can see… i’m still pisssed off after doing this to a few machines, until I finally sat down and figured out how to get the f’ing internet activation to work.


Solution: right click on word (or excel, or whatever office program) and select “Run As Administrator” 

It will launch the program as normal, and the activation menu will eventually pop-up as normal, but now it will not give you that error, and succeed in activating your office suite software.